Choosing jewelry, at a glance
Most of us learned how to choose jewelry by browsing a counter and waiting for something to catch our eye. However, the pieces that truly belong to you are already written into your hair, skin, eyes and features. When you know how to read them, you stop buying on impulse and start collecting with purpose.
The short video below walks through how to translate your natural design into clear guides for adornment. Then, in this post, I’ll show you how to choose jewelry step by step, using the same method I have used with clients for more than 40 years.
Mother Nature makes no mistakes. In fact, everything about your coloring and structure is a precise design, and your jewelry can repeat it. When a piece echoes your own colors, finish, size and shapes, the eye reads harmony. As a result, people see you first and the necklace second.
On the other hand, a piece that fights your design pulls focus away from your face. Instead of hearing your message, people notice what doesn’t work. That’s why a beautiful piece in the store can feel wrong the moment you put it on. Learning how to choose jewelry, then, is really learning how to read yourself.
Far beyond plain gold and silver, your palette might include brushed gold, rose gold, antique silver, pewter, bronze, brass, copper or oxidized copper. So start with your eyes. Look closely at your irises in natural light and notice whether you see silver, bright gold, bronze, brass or copper.
Next, study the highlights of your hair and the undertone of your skin. For example, a blue-eyed, brown-haired Summer might wear silver for the eyes, rose bronze for the hair and rose gold for the skin. Meanwhile, a green-eyed, blonde Spring could wear antique brass, gold and a peachy copper. You can explore these metal families further in my guide to what your color palette includes.
The level of sheen you can wear reflects the finish of your skin and hair. Smooth-textured skin looks best with smooth, shiny metals. Highly textured skin, by contrast, comes alive with engraved, hammered or carved finishes.
Scale comes from two measurements: the size of your head in relation to your body, and the size of your features in relation to your face. A small face with small features calls for small accessories. Likewise, a larger face with larger features calls for larger pieces.
Here is a simple test I share with clients. Measure from the center of your eyebrow to the corner of your mouth. Closer to three inches means compact features and smaller jewelry, while five inches or more means you can carry larger pieces.
What if you have a larger head with smaller features? Then blend the two. For instance, choose a large necklace with many small inset jewels.
When I look at a client’s features, I see shapes: triangles, ovals, circles, teardrops and diamonds. Each one can return in your jewelry. Almond eyes, for example, pair beautifully with longer, tapered beads or gemstones.
Round eyes and a pouting mouth suggest circular shapes, such as hoop earrings. Similarly, teardrop eyes might be reflected in a teardrop pendant. A triangle nose could appear in the shape of a necklace or earrings. So when you think about how to choose jewelry, start with the face in the mirror.
Once you know your metals, finish, scale and shapes, you can invest wisely. Instead of chasing many trendy pieces, look for a few basics in your own metals. These become the signature pieces you reach for with nearly every outfit.
Before any purchase, stand in front of a mirror in natural light and hold the piece up to your face. Ask yourself: Is this in balance with my face? Does it overwhelm me, or does it enliven me? If it feels right, keep it. If not, release it, and you will have avoided an expensive mistake.
A personal color analysis removes the guesswork, because it names your exact metals along with your colors.
Your first step today: hold your favorite necklace beside your face in a mirror and ask whether you see it first, or you.
Yes, if your coloring holds both. Medium-textured people often do well with mixed metals, and many Autumns favor them. Your eyes, hair and skin will tell you which combinations belong to you.
Don’t be discouraged. Local artisans and independent makers often offer antique, brushed and hammered finishes that standard retailers skip.
Take a full-length photo while wearing it. If you see the jewelry before your face, the scale or weight is too strong for your natural design.
